Day 11. El Locoo Natural - Peru
Peru stands out on the global stage as a producer of high-quality coffees. The country is recognized as the largest exporter of organic Arabica coffee, thanks to its unique combination of extremely high altitudes and fertile soils. These conditions allow smallholder farmers to cultivate some of the most stunning specialty coffees available.
Coffee first arrived in Peru in the 1700s, but it wasn't until the late 1800s that the country began exporting coffee on a significant scale. Initially, most coffee produced in Peru was consumed locally. The global shift came when coffee leaf rust devastated Indonesian crops, leading European coffee importers to seek new sources. Peru emerged as an ideal option.
From the late 1800s until World War I, European investments significantly boosted Peru's coffee production. However, during the World Wars, European powers, weakened and less focused on colonialism, began divesting from their overseas agricultural investments. The Peruvian government repurchased 2 million hectares of land previously owned by European powers and redistributed it to local farmers, many of whom turned to coffee cultivation.
Today, the majority of Peruvian coffee growers are small-scale farmers who often process their coffee on their own farms. The most common processing method is Fully washed, involving pulping, fermenting, and sun-drying the coffee cherries on raised beds or drying sheds. Drying greenhouses and parabolic beds are gaining popularity as farmers target specialty markets.
After drying, the coffee is sold in parchment either to cooperatives or middlemen. The small size and remoteness of many farms necessitate this intermediary step to bring the coffee to market. Cooperative membership offers significant protection against exploitation and can substantially boost income, but currently, only 15-25% of smallholder farmers are members of cooperative groups.
A notable example of Peruvian specialty coffee is the Peru El Locoo Natural from the Pasco region, specifically the small town of Huancabamba, Oxapampa. Grown at an altitude of 1800 meters above sea level, this coffee includes Bourbon, Catucai, Caturra, and Colombia varieties. The beans undergo a natural processing method, resulting in a cupping score of 82, with tasting notes of stone fruit, cinnamon, caramel, and apple.
Elias Inga and his son Litman have been collaborating with 7 Elements since 2017. After attending a 7 Elements training session on special processing methods, they experimented with Natural processing in 2021. The exceptional results led them to name their coffee "La Locura," meaning "something crazy."
Elias and Litman’s farm is located near the Yanachaga-Chemillin National Park, shaded by an array of tropical and nitrogen-fixing trees, which contribute to the farm's biodiversity. The highly variable microclimates within the Oxapampa-Ashaninka-Yanesha Biosphere Reserve mean that even slight altitude changes can result in different ecological conditions. To capitalize on this, 7 Elements groups farms by local ecological features.
7 Elements embraces permaculture, an ideology that promotes sustainable, resilient systems in farming, communities, and businesses. In the field, permaculture involves intercropping species supported by organic fertilization and pest-control systems, aiming to replicate natural cycles without external chemical inputs. For communities, it means fostering self-sufficiency and diversified income streams. Permaculture-inspired businesses, like 7 Elements, reinvest profits to benefit all participants.
The "food forest model" promoted by 7 Elements encourages farmers to grow a variety of crops, such as coffee, vanilla, sweet potatoes, and peanuts, which serve both economic and nutritional purposes. Each crop offers multiple benefits; for instance, neem trees provide shade and produce oil that controls coffee leaf rust.
Elias and Litman meticulously handpick ripe coffee cherries, float them to remove any over or underripes, and dry them on parabolic drying beds. The cherries are laid in thin layers and frequently turned to ensure even drying, a process that takes about three weeks. Once dried, the cherries rest in GrainPro bags for at least four weeks.
Founded in 2014 by biologist Giorgio Piracci and a close friend, 7 Elements began as an NGO to support Yanesha farmers and promote a new business model. This model seeks to create balanced social, environmental, and monetary benefits. 7 Elements pays farmers double the market price for coffee, which has inspired hope among the youth that agriculture can offer a prosperous future.
Giorgio’s vision is to redefine the concept of quality in coffee production, emphasizing both the final product and the cultivation process. His goal is to scale up 7 Elements and serve as a model of sustainable success for other companies and programs.
Peru's coffee industry, with its rich history and commitment to sustainable practices, holds exceptional promise. Initiatives like 7 Elements are paving the way for a more equitable and environmentally friendly approach to coffee farming, ensuring that both producers and consumers can enjoy the benefits of high-quality, ethically produced coffee.
