11. Barokah Kerinci Anaerobic - Sumatra
This specialty coffee is cultivated and harvested by the 320 members of the Koerintji Barokah Bersama Cooperative, located in the Gunung Tujuh region of Sumatra, Indonesia. Grown on small-scale farms averaging less than 2.5 hectares at elevations of 1400-1700 meters above sea level, the coffee is a blend of Andung Sari and Sigarar Utang, processed using an anaerobic natural method. The harvest takes place from April to June.
Indonesia has a rich history of coffee production, yet its coffees have recently been overlooked in the specialty market. Indonesia is particularly recognised for its distinctive wet hulling process (giling basah). While the exact origins are uncertain, it likely began in Aceh during the late 1970s. The method became popular due to producers' need for timely payments and was adopted by many who lacked the necessary drying infrastructure to protect parchment from Sumatra's high humidity and inconsistent rainfall. At higher altitudes, drying can be slow and challenging due to the constant humidity.
The 320 members of the Koerintji Barokah Bersama Cooperative live and farm on a plateau at the base of Mount Kerinci, which is one of the many volcanoes in the Pacific Ring of Fire—a 40,000-kilometer arc of 452 volcanoes characterized by frequent eruptions and tectonic activity. The historic eruptions of Mount Kerinci have enriched the surrounding area with fertile volcanic soil, promoting lush vegetation.
Triyono manages the cooperative and guides members in processing and roasting their coffee. They have a fully equipped roasting facility, including a cupping lab, adjacent to the dry mill—a remarkable feat considering the cooperative was established in mid-2017!
Most farms in Sumatra are small, averaging between 0.5 to 2.5 hectares. Coffee typically serves as the primary cash crop, but farmers often intercrop with vegetables, potatoes, and fruits, which contribute significantly to their family's diet throughout the year.
In addition to cultivating coffee, many smallholder farmers work as laborers on nearby tea plantations, as tea is also a major crop in the region. After the coffee harvest, these farmers often pick tea leaves under contract labor.
There is a growing movement among Sumatra's farmers to form cooperatives, as previously they had limited leverage to secure better prices for their cherries or parchment. By joining forces, they can share resources, organize training, and negotiate more favorable prices.
During the harvest season, coffee is handpicked, typically by family members, and then delivered to a UPH collection center.
Triyono oversees the operations at nine UPH stations owned by the cooperative. A UPH serves as a collection center where coffee cherries are purchased by the cooperative and processed before being sent to the central mill. Essentially, it functions as a small washing station.
To enhance efficiency, an agriculturalist provides technical assistance to ensure that standard operating procedures are followed during processing at each station. Each UPH is positioned in a distinct area and collects cherries from various farmer groups.
For this Anaerobic Natural lot, the coffee cherries are initially floated and sorted by density before being placed on raised beds. Workers remove underripe, overripe, and damaged cherries, then the ripe cherries are sealed in airtight 20kg plastic bags, stored in a cool, dry location (with temperatures between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius) for seven days.
After this initial period, the cherries are laid out on raised beds to dry in domes that protect them from rain and harsh sunlight. This drying process lasts around 20 to 23 days. Once dried, the coffee is milled and sorted by hand.
Farmers receive fair prices for their cherries and have a reliable buyer for their produce. At the end of the year, the cooperative's profits are either reinvested in infrastructure to enhance quality or distributed among the producers. Additionally, farmers benefit from technical support and seedlings for shade trees for their farms.
